Design Development

I came up with this design for a unisex jumper. I want to drape it and see if I can make it zero wait. A man/woman would wear in back to front depending. 

More designs on women's form. Starting to nut out what I do and do not like. I am really liking these two tone jackets as in the last design. I really like the idea of vests as they are more versatile for different kinds of weather. I am also playing with the idea of bringing in a dark brown cord. Woud this still be unisex? 

Color palate

The picture above is a few photographs of some fabrics that I am planning on using. I visited Hemptech in Auckland and got my hands on some 100% hemp fabrics and cotton/hemp blends. These fabrics include these sort of fibers. In addition the green and dark grey/black are 100% linen. 

This is my attempt of a color proportion chart. Basically there will be equal amounts of greens/blacks and the lighter grey s/creams. I believe this color palate is unisex and very wearable whilst still being inspired by the Margareta collection. 

Photoshop color

These are just some drawings that I colored in on photoshop after the tutorial. Still trying to get the hang of it! 

My Market

 These are the first few boards that shape my market together. I am focussing of the X and Y generation  to put it scientifically. I am also keeping the Z generation in mind which follow the Y as I want my collection to sustain over generations. I have learnt through my consumer behavior paper that generations is a effective and readily used way of segmenting target audiences. Wikipedia quotes the following about the Y generation, "Characteristics of the generation vary by region, depending on social and economic conditions. However, it is generally marked by an increased use and familiarity with communications, media, and digital technologies. In most parts of the world its upbringing was marked by an increase in a neoliberal approach to politics and economics; the effects of this environment are disputed." Knowing this, I need to consider how I sell my clothing - possibly via internet, how I approach this segment - via facebook/ engaging marketing techniques and lastly how the clothes effect and fit in todays world environmentally - informing these consumers about my sustainable label. Author John Ulrich explains about generation X that, "Since then, "Generation X" has always signified a group of young people, seemingly without identity, who face an uncertain, ill-defined (and perhaps hostile) future." Knowing this, I need to emphasize the warmness and protective element of the collection with its neutral tones and versatile ways.

The collage above is by no means implying that couples will be targeted for my label. In this collage I simply wanted to emphasize the way men and women wear clothes and how they can wear similar pieces very differently making each piece very masculine/feminine. I picked photographs where the man and the woman where dressed in a similar way to emphasize this. As for my market, I can really see couples of this age and style wearing my clothing. People who like to layer with scarves and coats etc, people who like relatively loose/relaxed clothing and like to be comfortable. 

The collage above represents a typical home of my market or a house that they see themselves living in. Even if someone in my market is a university student living in a flat, they are the type of person who spends money on nice elements that make their area of the house homely and individual. The house is relatively clean and simple but has small knick knacks that give the rooms personality and interest. Everything is accessible because they are normally very busy. They may have young children so cleanliness is important.

This collage represents the style of my market. They like to mix different textures, wear ALOT of layers, wear mostly neutral tones with greens and blues. They care about the environment and are worried about the way we are consuming and how this will effect the future of their children yet they are unsure what to do about it therefore at any opportunity to buy green/sustainable they do. Saying this they do not go out hunting for it, it is an added bonus. They like to layer similar colors together, e.g. many blues/browns and tans together. 

Zero waste jacket toile

This is my unisex zero waste jacket that I draped. In the first toile, the sleeve was not zero waste so I had to weave it into the block. 

The pictures are not the best but the first picture is half the pattern on card and the bottom picture shows how I made the jacket zero waste. I un picked the first jacket and laid it flat on paper then cut and exceeded parts to make the final block. 

I added a gusset to the back of the pleats which made a little hood shape (last picture). I am really pleased with this shape as I believe it makes the front of the jacket more layered and voluptuous. I need to change the area of the slash line for the shoulder as it was too tight especially on the mens form. I also need to make the jacket longer as the cropped look does not suit the mens form.

Jackets and Outerwear

These are a few jackets/outerwear that I designed. I found a khaki pen so have been using that instead of the green. Unsure what I think but I do know that the khaki is much more unsex and is definitely more cohesive with my collection ideas. I think the color also appeals to a larger market where as the previous vibrant green was more for someone who had that kind of loud personality and really wanted to wear something a bit different. 

The first jacket is similar to the one I have been draping throughout this assignment. I really like were it is going... I can imagine this is a thick lined linen to be more solid and also a soft organic cotton. The second design has quite a thick cowl. This would be a good time to use Maison Martin Margiela's technique of covering the armhole line with a shoulder pad as this makes it more wearable. 

I have started doing different color variations for men's and women's more for the point of seeing what different color combinations look like. I like the idea of layering vests under jackets for guys as I have done with the first design (quilted vest under loose baseball style jacket). With the second design I choose a much more tailored fit but to be totally honest I think this would be quite impossible to fit the man and the woman with that close fit. 

Experimenting with capes and fold over capes here. I like the idea of shoulder pads and elbow pads as they add a really discreet detail (and is good for zero waste when you don't no what to do with a little square!). It also brings the collection back to its 'protective' roots. 

Trouser - Unisex

For these design I was solely focussing on trousers. I believe trousers/pants are a great staple piece and having unusual trousers usually lasts through the seasons. After talking to my flatmates, who are at the lower age end of my target market they said they wished there were more interesting pants out there that go beyond the printed boat pants or skinny legs. I think this unisex collection definitely address that. I have tried to include all different types of pants from drop crotch to tailored. 

These first pants are one of my favorite. They would be done in an organic super soft charcoal cotton and as illustrated here, both men and women would wear them in different ways. The woman would most likely wear hers high waisted. 

Again playing with the idea of the tie around the leg which would be a separate feature that the shop would offer. They make a tailored straight leg quite unusual. These pants would have tuxedo straps on the waist to make them fitted for a smaller woman. 

I like this idea of using pattern but need to use photoshop possibly to mix this in as right now it looks to flat and rigid. I like the idea of having a side panel of a different color but I believe that the green is to vibrant next to that grey. 

Using the idea of the two panels again in these variations. In the design on the right, machine quilting would shape the side of the pants which comes back to the idea of 'protecting'.