Is recycled polyester fabric RECYCLABLE?

I found this blog on recyclable fabrics and what it is doing to the environment. It seems that a lot of the time although recycling has good methods in mind, it ends up defeating the purpose and doing more bad than good in the long run.

A fabric made of “recycled material” has a certain percentage of polyester which comes from these chips that the recycling facility has manufactured.  Using these chips has several issues which are exclusive to the textile industry:

• The base color of the recycled polyester chips vary from white to creamy yellow, making color consistency difficult to achieve, particularly for the pale shades.  Some dyers find it hard to get a white, so they’re using chlorine-based bleaches to whiten the base.
• Inconsistency of dye uptake makes it difficult to get good batch-to-batch color consistency and this can lead to high levels of re-dyeing, another very high energy process.  Re-dyeing contributes to high levels of water, energy and chemical use.
• Unsubstantiated reports claim that some recycled yarns take almost 30% more dye to achieve the same depth of shade as equivalent virgin polyesters.[1]
• Another consideration is the introduction of PVC into the polymer from bottle labels and wrappers.
• Many yarns made from recycled polyester are used in forgiving constructions such as polar fleece, where the construction of the fabric hides slight yarn variations.  For fabrics such as satins, there are concerns over streaks and stripes.

Most of the plastics in use today can be recycled but, because mechanical recycling produces a less stable polymer, the products which can be made from this recycled plastic are of “less value” than the original.  The products made from the “chips” must be a bit forgiving, such as carpet, plastic lumber, roadside curbs, truck cargo liners, waste receptacles (you get the idea).  William McDonough calls this “downcycling”.  No matter how many smiling people you see throwing their bottles into a recycling container and “preventing the plastic from entering our waste stream” as the media likes to put it – the reality is that the recycling can only be done mechanically a few times before the polymers break down and the plastic is no longer useful or useable – every time plastic is melted down, its molecular composition changes, its quality degrades, and the range of its usefulness shrinks.   So after going from a virgin PET bottle, to carpet fibers, to plastic lumber, to a speed bump – that’s when it enters our waste stream.  So recycling plastic doesn’t prevent this occurrence – it just postpones it.  Read more about “the seduction of plastic” .

To add insult to injury, if you had bought the fabric mentioned above and hoped the fabric would be recyclable as claimed:  probably not gonna happen, because remember how the recycling facility had to separate bottles to make sure each resin was melted with similar types?  Think of the fabric as similar to bottles with different plastic resins:  many fabrics are woven of different types of plastic (60% polyester, 40% nylon for example), or there is a chemical backing of some sort on the fabric.  These different chemicals, with different molecular weights, renders the fabric non-recyclable.  Period.

And even if the fabric we’re talking about is 100% polyester with NO chemical backings or finishes, there is a problem with recycling in the system itself.  Although bottles, tins and newspapers are now routinely collected for recycling, furniture and carpets still usually end up in landfill or incinerators, even if they have been designed to be recycled because the fabric must be separated from other components if it’s part of an upholstered piece of furniture, for example.

Chemical recycling is the alternative technology and it does exist.  During chemical recycling, the materials are chemically dissolved into their precursor chemicals.  Polyester, for example, would be broken down into DMT (dimethyl terephthalate) and EG (ethylene glycol).  These chemicals are then purified and used to make new polyester fiber.  But the reality is that this is difficult and expensive to do.  Patagonia has made using recycled plastics a priority and gives a good overview of the process with interesting comments about the unique problems they’re encountering; read about it here.

Currently, fabrics identified as being “recyclable” really are not  - because the technology to recycle the fibers is either too expensive (chemical) or doesn’t exist (mechanical) and the infrastructure to collect the fabric is not in place.    Few manufacturers, such as Designtex (with their line of EL fabrics designed to be used without backings) and Victor Innovatex (who has pioneered EcoIntelligent™ polyester made without antimony),  have taken the time, effort and money needed to accelerate the adoption of sustainable practices in the industry so we can one day have synthetic fabrics that are not only recycled, but recyclable.

So when you buy a fabric made of recycled polyester, remember it’s at the end of its useful life as a plastic  – and you are contributing to our dependence on non renewable resources and to the overwhelming burden of non-degradeable plastic in our environment.

Jordan, C. (Ed.). (2011, november 11). Is recycled polyester fabric RECYCLABLE? Retrieved may 8, 2012, from O ecotextiles : http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/11/11/is-recycled-polyester-fabric-recyclable/

This article pretty much looks at how reusing plastic is just prolonging when it is going to be unusable. Does this defeat the purpose? I believe it is better to REDUCE before thinking about RECYCLING 

Why I want to use Linen?

I really like Linen. I think it is long lasting, unisex sex and promotes a sustainable life style. It is a good in between fabric as sometimes you can not source organic fabrics especially a small business starting out. These are some reasons why I should use linen..

Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. Linen is valued for its exceptional qualities.

Linen fabrics have been serving humans since approximately ten thousand years ago. It were ancient Egyptians who first started to use linen for clothes and bedding. We know that from rock carvings. Local riches were clad in thin linen fabrics; linen fabrics were used for wrapping of pharaoh mummies. Linen clothes were used as a symbol of “purity and light”. They were considered to be pure and at the same time serve as a guardian for the body of the person who was wearing it.

Peasants used home-made linen clothes.

In ancient Greece linen clothes were a privilege of priests.

 
At later times linen was grown and processed in other, northern, countries.

There it was called  “north gold” and “north silk”. It was used for clothes, table and bed linens, military equipment, canvas for oil pictures.

In previous centuries linen was considered to be a “healthy fabric”.

Despite all those thousands or years behind its back, linen, the most ancient fabric, remains forever young.

Linen popularity is not diminishing, it is growing with each year.

The secret of its popularity lies in the unique and highly valuable qualities of linen fabric.

- It is considered to be able to regulate body temperature by regulating skin-air heat exchange.

Linen absorbs moister well and at the same time releases it quickly, dries out, so linen fabric doesn’t "stick" to the body. Air can pass through linen fabric easily, so the skin is "breathing".

- Linen creates a feeling of freshness in hot weather and comfort warmth in winter. It is due to high thermo insulation qualities of the linen. When the weather is hot, the temperature between the body and linen is 3-4 degree below the air. When it is cold, the linen fabric carefully saves the body’s heat.

- Linen possesses high air permeability and heat conductivity properties. Heat conductivity of linen is five times as high as that of wool and 19 times as that of silk. In hot weather those dressed in linen clothes are found to show the skin temperature 3°-4°C below that of their silk or cotton-wearing friends. According to some studies, a person wearing linen clothes perspires 1.5 times less than when dressed in cotton clothes and twice less than when dressed in viscose clothes. Meanwhile in cold weather linen is an ideal warmth-keeper;

- It  doesn’t cause allergic reactions.

- Linen fabric don’t create static (in fact, even having small amount of linen in the fabric, up to 10%, removes possibility of static on the fabric).

- Linen fabric possesses rare bacteriological properties. Linen fabric is a natural antiseptic, it kills bacteria, so neither bacteria nor fungus can live on it. It also reduces inflammation. These qualities were noted by people long time ago when it was noted that wounds under linen dressing healed faster than under the cotton ones. Wearing linen clothes helps to get rid of some skin diseases - from common rash to chronic eczema.

- Linen reduces gamma radiation nearly by half and protects the human body from solar radiation. Flax fiber from contaminated soils appears not to exhibit even traces of radiation.

- Linen rejects dirt and does not get teaseled.

- Linen and linen-containing articles are easily laundered in hot water, can be boiled and dried in the sun. Hot water kills bacteria and dust mites. Besides they can be hot-ironed thereby ensuring maximum sterilization.

- The more linen is washed the softer and smoother it becomes.

- Linen is renowned for its spectacular durability and long life. The tensile strength of linen thread is twice as high as that of cotton which means that linen can withstand more washing cycles and serve for much longer time than cotton bedding.

- Linen underscores naturalness, softness and relief; creasing is yet another precious property possessed by linen.

- Linen has rich texture and feels pleasant to the touch (we love sewing linen fabric!).

So, to sum it up: linen bedding provides exceptional sleeping environment, is healthy, eco-friendly, easily washed, beautiful and long-lasting .

All these unique features of linen fabrics were always highly valued by people, and now, overwhelmed with and overexposed to synthetics, we are coming back to this natural fabric.

Linen clothes and linen bedding have become fashionable again and make their way back to our life.

Nothing can compare with pleasant to touch, textured, cool and fresh linen sheets in summer or in winter. Linen bedding just help relax and have a tight, refreshing, healthy sleep.

Linen fabric cost is relatively high now, so it has become elite material and is used mostly by mid- and high-class people. (info@linenlinens.com, 2009)

info@linenlinens.com. (2009, Sept 1). Linen Linens. Retrieved May 31, 2012, from Linen Linens : http://www.linenlinens.com/why_linen.html

Organic Cotton

I thought I should look at some organic materials to get a better idea of which ones to use for my collection. This is some research I did on organic cotton.

Organic definitions

Organic refers to the way agricultural products are grown and processed.  It includes a system of production, processing, distribution and sales that assures consumers that the products maintain the organic integrity that begins on the farm.

Setting the stage for U.S. National organic standards, the U.S. Congress adopted the Organic Foods Production Act (OFPA) in 1990 as part of the 1990 Farm Bill. This action was followed by over a decade of public input and discussion, which resulted in a National Organic Program final rule published by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) in December 2000 and implemented in October 2002.

These stringent standards put in place a system to certify that specific practices are used to produce and process organic agricultural ingredients used for food and non-food purposes.

National organic standards set out the methods, practices and substances used in producing and handling crops, livestock and processed agricultural products. The standards include a national list of approved synthetic and prohibited non-synthetic substances for organic production.((OTA), 2011)

(OTA), T. O. (2011, Feb 16). Oraganic trade association . Retrieved May 31, 2012, from Organic trade association : http://www.ota.com/definition/quickoverview.html

WHERE IS THIS USED IN THE MARKET PLACE? - KOWTOW

SUSTAINABILITY

Fairtrade

“The World Health Organisation estimates that 20,000 people a year die in developing countries from pesticide poisoning, and a further 3 million people suffer chronic health problems”

Kowtow only uses 100% fairtrade certified cotton, as certified by the Fairtrade labelling Organisation and the benefits are:

• The Fairtrade guaranteed minimum price covers the costs of production and provides a sustainable livelihood for Kowtow cotton producers.
• The Fairtrade premium enables co-operatives to fund projects that benefit the organisation and wider community: business and agricultural training; drilling bore holes for clean water; building schools and clinics.
• Kowtow fairtrade producers benefit from advance payment and long-term relationships with buyers.
• Kowtow fairtrade producer groups are democratically run and respect the rights of farmers and farm workers.
• Fairtrade production standards encourage sustainable agriculture and protection of the environment.

Organic

“Cotton covers 2.5% of the world’s cultivated land, yet it accounts for 25% of the world’s insecticide market and 10% of global pesticide sales, making it the most pesticide-intensive crop grown on the planet”

Kowtow only uses 100% organic certified cotton, as certified by SKAL International and the benefit are:

• Never uses genetically modified seeds.
• Conserves soil though crop rotation.
• Retains water more efficiently thanks to increased organic matter in the soil.
• Controls weeds through physical removal rather than chemical destruction.
• Controls insects by maintaining a balance between “pests” and their natural predators through healthy soils.

Manufacturing

The factory in Kolkata, India where Kowtow garments are made has the following benefits:

• Only works with certified organic cotton.
• Factory sponsors projects such as Girls Education, Cow Shed and Cow Donation programs in the farmers villages. 
• All fabric is dyed using Global Organic Textiles Standard (GOTS) approved dyes which are free of hazardous elements such as nickel, lead, formaldehyde, amines, pesticides and heavy metals.
• Employees receive a living wage and factory pays for their social security and pension funds.
• Employees receive House Rent, which is 5% of their basic wages. 
• Employees receive free transport services to the factory.
• Employees receive paid holiday leave, sick pay, medical insurance, subsidies lunches and overtime pay.
• Employees children all receive free schooling.
• Employees work in a well lit, well ventilated and spacious working environment.
• Benefit from work place unions.

Elliott, G. (2010, june 4). KowTow Organic About . Retrieved may 1, 2012, from Kow Tow : http://www.kowtowclothing.com/pages/sustainability

Kow Tow does a fantastic job of maintaining sustainability methods within and outside their company. 

What are you wearing? (Market Research)

This is my friend Pippa. In order to get a stronger idea of what and why people wear specific clothing I asked Pippa questions about what she was wearing today. 

What are you wearing? Vintage leather jacket bought for $200 from a store in Paris, leather with insterts 95% Polyester 5% Elastane. Vintage silk shirt 'Van Zon' 100% silk, made in China, given to Pippa from her Mum. Madame Hawk Pants, 70% cotton, 25% Polyester, 5% Elastane, made in China, bought for on sale for $50. Country Road white t shirt, 55% Cotton, 45% Modal. Chuck Taylors, bought for $99. 

Why are you wearing these pieces/how long do you intend to keep it/why did you buy it?

- Jacket: Wearing this because its raining a little today and keeps the wind and rain out. It is also one of Pippa's favourite jackets and she wears it a lot. Pippa intends to keep it forever! Bought it because she really liked the style and it reminds her of her trip to Paris. 

- Shirt: Wearing because she liked the layering effect. She intends to keep it forever because it was passed down to her through her Mum. Liked the color and 100% shirt which are normally very expensive.

- Pants: Wearing the pants because they are comfortable for university and went with her outfit. Intends to keep these pants until the end of the year (approx). Bought the pants because she already has the same pants in orange and really loved the style, she found these ones on sale.

- T-shirt: Wearing for extra warmth and like the layering. Intends to keep it for as long as it lasts as it is a good basic. Bought it for layering for summer and winter. 

- Shoes: These shoes are comfortable and practical for university. Intend to keep them until they wear out, Bought them for everyday wearing - match with anything. 

. 

I then broke down what I was wearing that day: 

Black Pants - Country Road $120
- Made in China, 100% Rayon
- Bought them to wear for the trip to New York last year, they were loose and comfy but didn't look too much like track pants
- Would like to keep the pants for a couple of years

Black/ white Top - Hurricane Jeans $30
- Made in China, 100% cotton
- Bought it because I like that kind of stye, really loose - its actually a boys top, would just be useful
- Would like to keep it just till the end of the year I guess

Blue Cardigan - Kate Sylvester $395
- Made in Chine, 75% Acrylic, 25% Mohair
- Because its verrry warm, I really liked the colour, and its Kate Sylvester so I can wear it to work (because she works at Kate Sylvester)
- Would like to keep it forever! As long as it lasts!

Grey Jacket - Ruby $40 (on sale)
- Made in China, 100% Cotton
- Because it was cheap and I liked he style - I'm a jacket gal!
- Would like to keep it for a while actually, for how cheap I bought it - I still really like it!

In conclusion the items that have a story or are more expensive are the one's that Pippa and I intend to keep for longer/ the ones we cherish more. Hence in my collection I need to sustain a balance between price/value and maintaining a story or background

Design Development via Drape

I enjoyed draping straight on the mannequin instead of designing on paper so I took pictures of some jacket designs and I really like the way some of them turned out. Note that I only draped on one side as you only need one side to make the pattern and it conserves fabric. I tried to only use rectangles and squares with folds when designing. 

There would be no seam that goes under the arm so the front/back can be tied around to fit the women's shape. 

These are some different ways that you could wear the jacket. It would be interesting to see how it would translate on the women's form. All of the patterns are made out of squares or rectangles apart from the sleeve block. Zero waste pattern! 

These are some other jackets that I draped. I will now attempt to sew one up to see how it falls on the women's form. Need to try and sketch these! 

Fit in Men and Women mannequins and how this will effect my collection

I am having some trouble in designing on a men's form as I am so used to designing on a women's form so I decided to drape a fitted tunic on the male mannequin and make it up and compare the fit on the female mannequin in order to get a bit idea of sizes and the body shape.

As you may be able to see, the main areas of distortion on the women form is on the side of the bust, the shoulder and the area in the back. The back and bust areas do not really concern me as from the beginning I have wanted my collection to be lose and protected (with lose layers) however the major slopped shoulder does concern me as this translates to the armhole placement. If the armhole is too low on a woman (especially in a woven fabric) this can cause a lot of discomfort when moving. I have to think about this in my design development. 

Mood Board from photoshop tutorial

Here is a mood board that I did in class after a tutorial on photoshop. To me it does not really satisfy what the Alain collection is all about but thought it showed some ideas and skills that I have looked at along the way. I want the collection to have the protected idea and similar colors to the Margareta collection but in a more youthful, unisex, playful way.