Notes from Zero Waste Tutorial with Holly

Zero waste pattern cutting is a design practice that embraces UNCERTAINTY.
- Yeohlee teng
- Tara St James
- Alice Sutton (Selvage to Selvage)
- IDEA: things that enable further mending, leaving a length of a dress sewn up more than usual so it can be unpicked and worn longer or shorter in different seasons.
- Use paper models! "Endurance Skirt" - Using fabric that is already with a garment (connected) for mending.
-Imbedding finishing into a pattern.
JULIA LUMSDEN MASTERS WORDS:
-Piecing
-Merging
-Nesting
-Blending
-Creating.

How to start? Pre determined areas of the finished garment that are fixed and the remainder of the pattern evolves around these fixed attributes.

Piecing: establish pattern is divided into at least two smaller pieces, enabling the pattern to fit the width.
Merging: putting two pieces together/eliminating seams/darts to create useable negative space.
Blending: established pattern pieces are created. EG. creating pockets. First part of call FUNCTION. Mens pants without pockets: utility.
Embedding: Predetermining a garment piece or entire garment to then in bed in the overall garment pattern
Approaches: Cut and drape, geo cut (geometry inspired) planned chaos (blocks for zero waste pattern) -combination.

As long as the new line intersects a seam line it will fit the same. Instead of small fish dart shapes.

Advice from Holly for Zero waste jacket: use tear drop shape for armhole instead of straight slash line then look at Julia Lumsdens Masters folio for how to use teardrop shape for placket.

Zero waste jacket on body

Best toile so far! Left most is how a man would wear the jacket and the right is how a woman would wear it. Still having issues with sleeve. 

Patterns

Playing with th 'protective' theme that comes from the Margareta collection, I wanted to creat a modern print that emphsized this. I came up with the idea of guns and targets so below are two of the prints that I made and then some further developments photo shopped on t shirts. 

This was the first one I did, I can deffinately imagine it on a men's tailored shirt in really small symbols. They re intened to give a basic geometric shape from afar and then you see the atual guns up close. I could play with grey on grey color combintions to make the pattern a little more suttle. 

I then outlined the gun shape and patterned it to create a similar asthetic as the pattern above but a little more suttle and therefore possibly more feminine. Even though guns are always asociated with men, I believe women/girls would deffinately wear a print like this. 

 

Here I am putting some prints on t-shirts. I think some of them are really effective. I need to change the color combinations to fit my collection but apart from that I think they could add a really fun element that would be popular in the market place. 

Design Development - Vests

I think vests are a very valuable piece to own as they are more trans seasonal than a jacket and perfect for layering. I believe they fit into my collection well as a simple belt around the waist can put a feminine spin on a masculine looking outfit. I have started introducing this brown color into the collection. I need to find a marterial that resembles this color and asses how it looks with the other colors. 

Photoshoped jerseys/knitwear

Trying to practice some photoshop techniques on some jerseys/jackets I drew and then scanned in. The main thing you really need is a bit of patience! The top row is mens and bottom is women. I believe both these rows would appeal to my target market as they are great layering pieces. Need to work on my shading! 

Mood board

This is my mood/concept board that I have been working on. I wanted to include a garment that could be seen in the zero waste collection (this jacket). I like the color combinations as they reinforce the green/sustainable theme. The wrinkling/deterioration texture on the jacket references back to the Margareta collection. The stereotype sign is inspired by a Maison Martin Margiela picture that presents the size of the jacket as a stereotype for the real thing. I liked this idea as is presents the idea that this way of thinking is new and in 'testing' and is is up to the consumer to put there own style with it. 

Design Development

I came up with this design for a unisex jumper. I want to drape it and see if I can make it zero wait. A man/woman would wear in back to front depending. 

More designs on women's form. Starting to nut out what I do and do not like. I am really liking these two tone jackets as in the last design. I really like the idea of vests as they are more versatile for different kinds of weather. I am also playing with the idea of bringing in a dark brown cord. Woud this still be unisex?