Tuesday 15 May 2012

Notes from Zero Waste Tutorial with Holly

Zero waste pattern cutting is a design practice that embraces UNCERTAINTY.
- Yeohlee teng
- Tara St James
- Alice Sutton (Selvage to Selvage)
- IDEA: things that enable further mending, leaving a length of a dress sewn up more than usual so it can be unpicked and worn longer or shorter in different seasons.
- Use paper models! "Endurance Skirt" - Using fabric that is already with a garment (connected) for mending.
-Imbedding finishing into a pattern.
JULIA LUMSDEN MASTERS WORDS:
-Piecing
-Merging
-Nesting
-Blending
-Creating.

How to start? Pre determined areas of the finished garment that are fixed and the remainder of the pattern evolves around these fixed attributes.

Piecing: establish pattern is divided into at least two smaller pieces, enabling the pattern to fit the width.
Merging: putting two pieces together/eliminating seams/darts to create useable negative space.
Blending: established pattern pieces are created. EG. creating pockets. First part of call FUNCTION. Mens pants without pockets: utility.
Embedding: Predetermining a garment piece or entire garment to then in bed in the overall garment pattern
Approaches: Cut and drape, geo cut (geometry inspired) planned chaos (blocks for zero waste pattern) -combination.

As long as the new line intersects a seam line it will fit the same. Instead of small fish dart shapes.

Advice from Holly for Zero waste jacket: use tear drop shape for armhole instead of straight slash line then look at Julia Lumsdens Masters folio for how to use teardrop shape for placket.