Toile: Jaycen shirt

For the Jaycen shirt I wanted to prove that zero waste could fit and look very similar to your standard traditional garments like a shirt. The pictures above are of the first toile that I did. It is from the first pattern that combined the Micah and Jaycen shirt. I didn't add a button wrap onto this shirt so struggled when it came to the finished sample (which you will see later). It is hard to make last minute changes in zero waste. The top row is on women's form and bottom line is men's form. 

This is the finished sample toile for this project. I sewed the armholes differently, as an experiment (you can do this very easily, by mistake or on purpose in zero waste. This made part of the shirt pucker up in the back but apart from this it fits the forms really nicely. A girl would pop some tights on and some biker boots (wearing as a dress) while a boy could wear some black jeans going out or to a formal occasion. This shirt would be long sleeved (did not have enough fabric). 

Finished sample toile. All pictures on women's form. This shirt includes the button wrap which I had to fold on several times. The white binding tape is the waist on the men's form. I made this shirt by first draping it on the mannequin to get blocks then puzzled them to make the pattern zero waste. 

These are the patterns that I split from the original micah/jaycen shirt to prove that you can use a variety of fabrics once you have an initial block. This is a criticism of zero waste and part of Alain is promoting zero waste pattern hence trying to stop problems like fabric choice. Another issue when making more than one garment in a pattern occurs in production when you want to make 50 jackets and 100 shirts, splitting the pattern (although it may use more fabric) reduces these issues.