Transformation of Micah Jacket

Top row is on women's form and bottom row is men's form. 

I had to do several toiles of this jacket to get the right shape. The main issues came from the armhole and the shape of the sleeve when going from men's form to women's form. In the end I used a teardrop shape for the insertion and a huge sleeve which then had to be pulled in internally with a tie. This tie can be reduced/extended from men's to women's form. 

Patterns for sample toile. Split into sleeve and body so I could use contrasting fabrics as designed. 

Final Sample: Zero Waste Micah Jacket

This is the pattern from Micah and Jaycen shirt

on mens form

 on matt!

 side view, gusset sticks out a bit..

back view 

I choose 100% linen because of all its benefits mostly to do with long lasting endurance. The jacket is unisex, zero waste and can be worn many ways on both a man's and women's form. 

Starting to finalize boards

I made this board to represent the other sector of my collection inspiration. It shows how simple zero waste can be. This is in order to promote zero waste in the market place as this is what my collection is pushing. The colors and format are cohesive with my collection. I have followed through the same fonts and 'cut out' imagery.

These are my illustration boards. I added the texture from the mood board below to reinforce the idea of decay that stemmed from the Margareta collection. I am considering doing a second drawing for the first board (if I have time!). 

I have tried to adapt this mood board to fit within with portfolio. I like the top one. I think it links to the idea of a cut out through the window shape which has been an illustration theme throughout my portfolio. 

Toile: Jaycen shirt

For the Jaycen shirt I wanted to prove that zero waste could fit and look very similar to your standard traditional garments like a shirt. The pictures above are of the first toile that I did. It is from the first pattern that combined the Micah and Jaycen shirt. I didn't add a button wrap onto this shirt so struggled when it came to the finished sample (which you will see later). It is hard to make last minute changes in zero waste. The top row is on women's form and bottom line is men's form. 

This is the finished sample toile for this project. I sewed the armholes differently, as an experiment (you can do this very easily, by mistake or on purpose in zero waste. This made part of the shirt pucker up in the back but apart from this it fits the forms really nicely. A girl would pop some tights on and some biker boots (wearing as a dress) while a boy could wear some black jeans going out or to a formal occasion. This shirt would be long sleeved (did not have enough fabric). 

Finished sample toile. All pictures on women's form. This shirt includes the button wrap which I had to fold on several times. The white binding tape is the waist on the men's form. I made this shirt by first draping it on the mannequin to get blocks then puzzled them to make the pattern zero waste. 

These are the patterns that I split from the original micah/jaycen shirt to prove that you can use a variety of fabrics once you have an initial block. This is a criticism of zero waste and part of Alain is promoting zero waste pattern hence trying to stop problems like fabric choice. Another issue when making more than one garment in a pattern occurs in production when you want to make 50 jackets and 100 shirts, splitting the pattern (although it may use more fabric) reduces these issues. 

Landscape Mood boards

The rest of my portfolio is landscape and I think it would be disturbing to the reader to have to turn the way they are looking therefore I have changed to of my boards to fit a landscape direction. I also wanted the boards to be more cohesive throughout the portfolio and mirror not only the mood but also the colors and style of the collection. 

I am reasonably happy with this first one. The threaded area would be actually threaded. I also made the jacket longer in photoshop as this is how it is in the collection. This would be printed on canvas. then threaded into with embroidery thread. 

This is one of the first mood boards I did. I used this image as a trail for printing on canvas and the colors etc came out really well. I think it brings in the ideas of the Margareta collection well which are still important in this brief. I need to work on putting text in this image as this set up is not working to well.

Starting specification drawings

Starting some specification drawings and making notes of aspects I need to change or reconsider. These are not mirrored so garments are not yet the same on each side. I intend to do this on photoshop. I wanted to see pieces together (of outfits). 

Starting Illustrations

Starting some illustrations by sketching some people I imagine wearing my clothes. I want to create a sketchy yet 'cutout' feel to my illustrations that is then enhance with green thread that lines the clothing. I really want the mood to portray my target market and see some angles of the clothing that you don't see in the line up. I want to portray this idea of sketchy yet tailored throughout my portfolio. Effortless Layering is a term that is starting to sum up my collection. 

Taking the drawings into photoshop and giving hints of situational backgrounds. I want to maintain the pencil lines on faces as I think this contributes to a layering effect. 

Importing fabric into drawings and trying to collage them together, unsure if they look better alone... 

IDEA: could have A3 page with two bordered A4 areas that each have a illustration in them. Borders could be in gun print.