Relaxed Tuxedo strap sample

I used a lot of tuxedo strap tighteners in my collection so decided to sample. The sample does not show the end of the strap as seen in the drawings but this would flap out so the belt can be tightened between men and women. 

Machine quilted Pocket sample

Machine quilted pocket sample. Building on the idea of protecting etc- great for boys who like big pockets. 

Couples Photos with toile!

In the rush to finish these toiles, I couldn't find models in such short notice so the mannequins had to do! I tried to mix them up a bit and show outfits. I think the garments work really well together.

Duncan Pants

For the Duncan pants, unlike the other garments, I wanted to show how simple zero waste can be by creating the simplest pants I could design. With less seams etc fit is compromised however with a few adjustments and tuxedo ties at waist band I think they could really work. These pictures are on the men's form. 

Pattern for zero waste pants. 

Transformation of Micah Jacket

Top row is on women's form and bottom row is men's form. 

I had to do several toiles of this jacket to get the right shape. The main issues came from the armhole and the shape of the sleeve when going from men's form to women's form. In the end I used a teardrop shape for the insertion and a huge sleeve which then had to be pulled in internally with a tie. This tie can be reduced/extended from men's to women's form. 

Patterns for sample toile. Split into sleeve and body so I could use contrasting fabrics as designed. 

Final Sample: Zero Waste Micah Jacket

This is the pattern from Micah and Jaycen shirt

on mens form

 on matt!

 side view, gusset sticks out a bit..

back view 

I choose 100% linen because of all its benefits mostly to do with long lasting endurance. The jacket is unisex, zero waste and can be worn many ways on both a man's and women's form. 

Toile: Jaycen shirt

For the Jaycen shirt I wanted to prove that zero waste could fit and look very similar to your standard traditional garments like a shirt. The pictures above are of the first toile that I did. It is from the first pattern that combined the Micah and Jaycen shirt. I didn't add a button wrap onto this shirt so struggled when it came to the finished sample (which you will see later). It is hard to make last minute changes in zero waste. The top row is on women's form and bottom line is men's form. 

This is the finished sample toile for this project. I sewed the armholes differently, as an experiment (you can do this very easily, by mistake or on purpose in zero waste. This made part of the shirt pucker up in the back but apart from this it fits the forms really nicely. A girl would pop some tights on and some biker boots (wearing as a dress) while a boy could wear some black jeans going out or to a formal occasion. This shirt would be long sleeved (did not have enough fabric). 

Finished sample toile. All pictures on women's form. This shirt includes the button wrap which I had to fold on several times. The white binding tape is the waist on the men's form. I made this shirt by first draping it on the mannequin to get blocks then puzzled them to make the pattern zero waste. 

These are the patterns that I split from the original micah/jaycen shirt to prove that you can use a variety of fabrics once you have an initial block. This is a criticism of zero waste and part of Alain is promoting zero waste pattern hence trying to stop problems like fabric choice. Another issue when making more than one garment in a pattern occurs in production when you want to make 50 jackets and 100 shirts, splitting the pattern (although it may use more fabric) reduces these issues.